All around Wargaming with Flames of War. Also Terrain Building, Painting and WIP/Tutorials
Montag, 22. April 2013
Samstag, 20. April 2013
Flames of War - Painting Guide - Faces
Hi all,
yes you can do it .. and it still is a fascinating thing. Painting the face to a 15mm figure..... horrible experience ? No idea on how to do it..??? Lets go:
Use a wet palette made with a Folgers Coffee can lid, wax paper and ass-wipe. Add water and your paints stay wet for days... Too bad it doesn't work on the wife...upsssss
To paint faces, I use Vallejo colors from top right to left:
817 Scarlet
876 Brown Sand
803 Brown Rose
342 Highlights Flesh (white and flat flesh same-same)
845 Sunny Skin Tone
955 Flat Flesh
822 German Camo Black Brown
872 Chocolate Brown
I also use 815 Basic Skin Tone as the basecoat. Lets see, thats 9 plus white and black. Holy crap! No wonder its taking me so long to finish anything! I begin by taking a white-primed figure and painting an undercoat of 815 on all the face and hands. Try to keep the paint thin. I add about 1/2 drop of water to a full drop of well-shaken paint. I let this dry usually overnight but if you are in a hurry, into the oven for about 15 minutes at 65-70 degrees celsius.Then its up for slight drybrushing in the colours stated above.
yes you can do it .. and it still is a fascinating thing. Painting the face to a 15mm figure..... horrible experience ? No idea on how to do it..??? Lets go:
Use a wet palette made with a Folgers Coffee can lid, wax paper and ass-wipe. Add water and your paints stay wet for days... Too bad it doesn't work on the wife...upsssss
To paint faces, I use Vallejo colors from top right to left:
817 Scarlet
876 Brown Sand
803 Brown Rose
342 Highlights Flesh (white and flat flesh same-same)
845 Sunny Skin Tone
955 Flat Flesh
822 German Camo Black Brown
872 Chocolate Brown
I also use 815 Basic Skin Tone as the basecoat. Lets see, thats 9 plus white and black. Holy crap! No wonder its taking me so long to finish anything! I begin by taking a white-primed figure and painting an undercoat of 815 on all the face and hands. Try to keep the paint thin. I add about 1/2 drop of water to a full drop of well-shaken paint. I let this dry usually overnight but if you are in a hurry, into the oven for about 15 minutes at 65-70 degrees celsius.Then its up for slight drybrushing in the colours stated above.
Donnerstag, 18. April 2013
Flames of War - Painting Guide - Colourschemes and helps for painting (German, Russian, British and US)
15mm Armor
COLOR SWATCH | TAMIYA | VALLEJO | COMMENTS |
German
DAK Desert Yellow |
XF-59 Desert Yellow | Desert Yellow 70977 | Early DAK vehicles. White added to achieve a bleached look. |
German
DAK Desert Yellow |
. | . | Later DAK Vehicles. White added to achieve a bleached look. |
Dark
Yellow |
XF-60 Dark Yellow | Middlestone 70882 | White added to achieve a bleached look. |
Panzergrey |
XF-63 German Grey with white | German
Grey 70995 or Dark Seagreen 70868 |
Ratio is 2 drops to 1 drop Whit |
German
Camo Red Brown |
. | . | . |
German
Camo Green |
. | . | . |
German
Red Oxide Primer |
. | . | . |
Russian
Tank Green |
. | . | . |
Russian
Medium Tank Green |
. | . | . |
Russian
Dark Tank Green |
. | . | . |
Russian
Camo Earth |
. | . | Added to some 1943 T-34s. |
UK
Tank Light Green |
. | . | Fireflies, CMP vehicles etc... |
UK
Tank Dark Green |
. | . | Bren Carriers, Matilda I/IIs etc... |
UK
Desert Sand |
. | . | White can be added for more of a bleached look. |
USA
Tank Olive Drab |
. | . | . |
USA
Vehicle Olive Drab |
. | . | . |
USA
Brown Tarps |
. | . | Halftrack roof covers, |
French
Tank Base Yellow |
. | . | Base color on French Cavalry Tanks. |
French
Camo Red Brown |
. | . | Red camo color on French Cavalry Tanks. |
French
Camo Green |
. | . | Green camo color on French Cavalry Tanks. |
Recommended
Colors for Painting 15mm Infantry
GERMANY | NAME | PAINT | COMMENTS |
Uniform Feldgrau (grey) | German Fieldgrey 70830 & White 951 | So many variations but Vallejo 830 is a good start although too dark for 15mm on its own. I continually play with these mixtures. Ratio is 3 drops of Fieldgrey to 1 drop other. | |
Uniform Feldgrau (green) | German Fieldgrey 70830 & Buff 976 | ||
Uniform Feldgrau (yellow) | German Fieldgrey 70830 & Sand Yellow 916 | ||
Early Helmet (ApfelGrun) | Camoflaged Green 72031 (Game color) & Black 950 | Ratio is 3 drops to 1 drop Black | |
Mid to Late Helmet | Reflective Green 890 & Black 950 | Ratio is 3 drops to 1 drop Black | |
Mid to Late Helmet | German Camo Dk Green 979 | ||
|
Uniform Afrika Korp. | ||
|
Early-war Collar | Black Green 70980 & Black 70950 | A smidge of black, looks fairly to scale for 1939-42 collar. |
|
Gasmask Can / Mess Kit | Extra Dark Green 70896 | Color varied as the war progressed. Good Early-war color |
|
Rifle Strap | Saddle Brown 70940 or Flat Brown 70984 | Either is good, I prefer Flat Brown |
|
Water Bottle Cover | Beige Brown 70875 | Suede leather water bottle cover |
|
Breadbag and Gasmask strap | Khaki 70988 OR Yellow Green 881 | Highlight with white added |
|
Entrenching tool wooden handle | Sunny Skintone 70845 with Iraqui Sand 70819 | Ratio is 1 drop each |
|
Rifles and MG Butts | Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or Cavalry Brown 70982 with Black 70950 | 820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown |
High Boots | Black 950 | ||
Early-war Wehrmacht Splinter camo. Used on Zeltbahn tent quarters/ponchos and helmet covers. Differed slightly from later war covers. | Base Color: Stone Grey 70884 with White 70951 | Ratio is 1 drop of Stone Grey to 1 drop White. | |
Brown Bands: Beige Brown 70875 | |||
Green Splotches: Intermed. Green 70891 | |||
Dark Thin Streaks: Black Green 70980 |
RUSSIA | NAME | PAINT | COMMENTS |
Early Uniform Khaki | Yellow Green 881 or Dark Yellow 978 | Excellent match for a base color. Slight green tinge. This color can range from brown-khaki to green-khaki. | |
Early-war Greatcoat and Rain Poncho | US Field Drab 873 | The bundle over the shoulder was either the greatcoat or a rain poncho (Plash-palatka). Various colors for both. | |
Knapsack and straps | Khaki 988 or Buff 976 | Many variations. | |
Gasmask bag | Middlestone 118 or Khaki Grey 880 with Beige Brown 875 leather latch | Many variations. | |
Helmet, Russian Mess tin and Bowl | Reflective Green 890 & Golden Olive 857 & Red | Ratio is 1 to 2 to a smidge. | |
Enlisted man belt and ammo pouches | Beige Brown 875 | Early war color, many variations. | |
Officers belt and holster | Flat Brown 984, highlight with Mahogany Brown 846 | Many variations. | |
Rifles and MG Butts | Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or Cavalry Brown 982 with Black 950 | 820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown. | |
Rifle Straps | German Cam. Orange Orche 824 | ||
High Boots | Black 950 |
UNITED KINGDOM | NAME | PAINT | COMMENTS |
Canadian Uniform Khaki | |||
UK Uniform Khaki Europe | |||
UK Uniform Africa | |||
UK Helmet | |||
Late War Turtle Mk.III Helmet | Burnt Umber 70941 with Brown Violet 70887 | Ratio is 1 drop each. This is as close to my original Mk.III color as I can get. | |
Rifles and MG Butts | Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or Cavalry Brown 982 with Black 950 | 820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown. |
UNITED STATES | NAME | PAINT | COMMENTS |
USA Uniform Europe 44-45 Tunics / Pants | |||
USA Uniform Europe 44-45 Pants | |||
USA Helmet | |||
Rifles and MG Butts | Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or Cavalry Brown 982 with Black 950 | 820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown. |
Moving house
Finally my landlord is coming back from his other estate in Dublin to reclaim the house I am currently renting. So at present state it is packing and relocating to a new home till mid of May. I guess, I will still find some time to paint and build during this period, but it will result in me not being that kinda active as I would like to be.
Anyway , my new home will feature a sole room for gaming , building etc... so my own hobby room.
YEAHHH ! Looking forward to that !
Anyway , my new home will feature a sole room for gaming , building etc... so my own hobby room.
YEAHHH ! Looking forward to that !
Sonntag, 14. April 2013
Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Hedges made the easy way
Hi all...
the most simple stuff often is the best way to go. So this time it is up for some hedges. You probably need them anyway in your games so I will build here two parts.
One is for Flames of War or any other 15mm game. The second one is more for the 28mm games like GW, Bolt Action or Napoleonics, ACW, etc....
What do we need:
Obviously the exact height depends on the height of hedge you want, the sizes given will produce hedges that will provide cover but can still be seen over.
The Build:
Step 1: Cut stripes from the pan scourer. Depending to which scale you are heading for, please refer to the "Measurements".
Step 2: Once you have cut the hedge to height simply cut it to the length of the sticks you will be using for bases.
Step 3 (optional, only relevant for 28mm): For figure scales above 15mm the thickness of the pan scourer isn’t enough for a realistic looking hedge.To solve this problem the piece of scourer we cut is folded over and glued together using your hot glue gun.This will simply adjust to your scale.
Step 4: Glue your hedge to your base. Best or easiest way for me here is a hot glue gun. If you are making a hedge with some sort of gate in between simply glue two smaller fitting hedge parts to it and leave the gap. Afterwards you can glue your gate in there. Same goes for some sort of stone wall , bushes or trees.
Step 5: Spraypainting or airbrushing this hedge will prove difficult. So please go outside and I would recommend a brown undercoat instead of a black one. Reason is as simple... I only have seen black hedge parts shimmering through if something was nearly burned to ashes.
Step 6: Paint your tounge depressor (or the base of your choice) and flock it.
Step 7: Give your hedge a goooooood coating of PVA and dip into flock or flock it by hand.
Happy gaming.
the most simple stuff often is the best way to go. So this time it is up for some hedges. You probably need them anyway in your games so I will build here two parts.
One is for Flames of War or any other 15mm game. The second one is more for the 28mm games like GW, Bolt Action or Napoleonics, ACW, etc....
What do we need:
- Pan Scourers
- Wooden Ice Cream sticks/Tongue depressors
- Hot Glue Gun
- Spray primer (Dark Brown or Black)
- Flock (Green or Brown depending on season being modeled)
- PVA Glue (The white stuff woodworkers use)
Figure Scale | Hedge Height | Cut Size | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
15mm | 10mm | 10mm | ||||
28mm | 20mm | 40mm |
Obviously the exact height depends on the height of hedge you want, the sizes given will produce hedges that will provide cover but can still be seen over.
The Build:
Step 1: Cut stripes from the pan scourer. Depending to which scale you are heading for, please refer to the "Measurements".
Step 2: Once you have cut the hedge to height simply cut it to the length of the sticks you will be using for bases.
Step 3 (optional, only relevant for 28mm): For figure scales above 15mm the thickness of the pan scourer isn’t enough for a realistic looking hedge.To solve this problem the piece of scourer we cut is folded over and glued together using your hot glue gun.This will simply adjust to your scale.
Step 4: Glue your hedge to your base. Best or easiest way for me here is a hot glue gun. If you are making a hedge with some sort of gate in between simply glue two smaller fitting hedge parts to it and leave the gap. Afterwards you can glue your gate in there. Same goes for some sort of stone wall , bushes or trees.
Step 5: Spraypainting or airbrushing this hedge will prove difficult. So please go outside and I would recommend a brown undercoat instead of a black one. Reason is as simple... I only have seen black hedge parts shimmering through if something was nearly burned to ashes.
Step 6: Paint your tounge depressor (or the base of your choice) and flock it.
Step 7: Give your hedge a goooooood coating of PVA and dip into flock or flock it by hand.
Happy gaming.
Samstag, 13. April 2013
Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Fences
After the hedges theres is also a need of fences.
Please be advised to check on the measurements at the hedges for doing the same along for the fences. The max high btw is measured on the upright standing wooden parts and not on the upper row of the wooden fence itself.
What is needed
15mm:
Toothpicks
Match sticks
Base
PVA
28mm:
Coffee sticks
Base
PVA
Step 1:
Take one of your minis and measure approx brest high. That is the max of the upper row.
Step 2:
Take the long sided "Boards" of the fence and lay them out. Cut off another part to glue in approx 90 degrees to the bottom.
Step 3:
Wait to dry. Glue to your base with PVA glue.
Step 4:
Prime base along with fence.
Step 5:
Paint and Flock base
Step 6:
Paint fence
Happy building....
Please be advised to check on the measurements at the hedges for doing the same along for the fences. The max high btw is measured on the upright standing wooden parts and not on the upper row of the wooden fence itself.
What is needed
15mm:
Toothpicks
Match sticks
Base
PVA
28mm:
Coffee sticks
Base
PVA
Step 1:
Take one of your minis and measure approx brest high. That is the max of the upper row.
Step 2:
Take the long sided "Boards" of the fence and lay them out. Cut off another part to glue in approx 90 degrees to the bottom.
Step 3:
Wait to dry. Glue to your base with PVA glue.
Step 4:
Prime base along with fence.
Step 5:
Paint and Flock base
Step 6:
Paint fence
Happy building....
Montag, 8. April 2013
Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Sculpting Urban walls
Hi again,
finally more terrain pieces. After all the markers etc.. I guess it is time for more fun with always usable stuff.
Different cities have different timescales of architectual designs. So a "normal" or standardised wall doesnt make that much of a sense. This demands for some self made stuff again.
What to use:
- Foamcore (approx 2-3mm thick)
- Cardboard (approx 1mm thick)
- PVA Glue
Measurements:
Walls all have different heights etc. So my personal measurement is going like this:
Surrounding walls 30mm heigh
Half heigh walls 15mm heigh (thats approx with a base of FoW the heigh there a standing guy still can shoot atop)
Steps:
1) Start cutting as accurate as you can a piece of foamcore. It is really easy to cut, and even if it is not so accurate it doesn’t matter, because it is going to be covered totally.
2) Then use some cardboard. A good one, 1 mm thick. Overlay two cardboard pieces for the reliefs, and glue them together.
3) Then do the same again, and make a sandwich with the foamcore piece cut upfront. Since the two faces will never be seen together, it is not strictly necessary for them to be identical.
4) For the top, use three layers of cardboard.
5) And that’s it. You now have a piece worth for making a mold out of it:
finally more terrain pieces. After all the markers etc.. I guess it is time for more fun with always usable stuff.
Different cities have different timescales of architectual designs. So a "normal" or standardised wall doesnt make that much of a sense. This demands for some self made stuff again.
What to use:
- Foamcore (approx 2-3mm thick)
- Cardboard (approx 1mm thick)
- PVA Glue
Measurements:
Walls all have different heights etc. So my personal measurement is going like this:
Surrounding walls 30mm heigh
Half heigh walls 15mm heigh (thats approx with a base of FoW the heigh there a standing guy still can shoot atop)
Steps:
1) Start cutting as accurate as you can a piece of foamcore. It is really easy to cut, and even if it is not so accurate it doesn’t matter, because it is going to be covered totally.
2) Then use some cardboard. A good one, 1 mm thick. Overlay two cardboard pieces for the reliefs, and glue them together.
3) Then do the same again, and make a sandwich with the foamcore piece cut upfront. Since the two faces will never be seen together, it is not strictly necessary for them to be identical.
4) For the top, use three layers of cardboard.
5) And that’s it. You now have a piece worth for making a mold out of it:
Sonntag, 7. April 2013
Flames of War - (Tutorial) - How to do smoke / flame markers
As a couple of you guys probably know I like the videos on youtube by Shawn Morris. That results in me at least understanding and being capable of redoing the stuff he does in his tutorials.
After my last game with Ed I figured out that I need more markers. Especially smoke and destroyed markers and then I recalled this fantastic video tutorial by Shawn.
It allows you to reproduce and produce your personal customized smoke and fire markers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2-2qL1_abI
Just a short wrap up what you need and what is needed to be done:
Stuff needed
Foil Clump
Wire
a coing or something suitable as a base
Superglue
PVA Glue
Step 1:
Cut some wire as you see fit. I first did one by approx 8 to 10 inches, but figured out that it would be way toooooooo large....
Step 2:
Bend your wire around and connect the loose two ends with each other. A bit of twisting should do the job here
Step 3:
Straighten the wire , hold the bended end in your hand and start twisting the connected parts around. You will get one wire out of this which is a bit more stable. Do NOT twist everything. At the end you should have the end there your fingers have been as some small sort of hangmanns end.
Step 4:
Bend over the "hangmans end" and superglue it to the coin or your base.
Step 5:
Bend your wire as desired. Shawn uses an "S"-Shape in his tutorial which worked out fine for me.
Step 6:
While the superglued part is still not that hard glue some clumb foilage around .
Step 7:
Use superglue on the wire and proceed going up with glueing clumb foilage. Bear in mind to press hard as your surface you are glueing to is not that much. Please also recall that smoke (except by an atomic nuke) curls up and that it gets smaller to the top
Step 8:
Mix down water and PVA Glue approx 50:50
Step 9:
As foilage will break of we need to harden it. Use an old brush and really soak the clumb foilage mix on your "marker" till the bone.
Step 10:
leave it to dry
Step 11:
Test your marker. It should be hard now and leaves a small sound if you use your finger nail against it. If that is not the case please repeat step 9 , 10 and 11
Step 12:
Prime it (I used black)
Step 13:
Drybrush it (Smoke will get different grey colours - start with the darkest and build up to the brightest part). If you have them like fire please bear in mind that the lower parts need some deepred, red, orange, yellow, white)
Step 14:
Varnish it matt and ready you are.
After my last game with Ed I figured out that I need more markers. Especially smoke and destroyed markers and then I recalled this fantastic video tutorial by Shawn.
It allows you to reproduce and produce your personal customized smoke and fire markers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2-2qL1_abI
Just a short wrap up what you need and what is needed to be done:
Stuff needed
Foil Clump
Wire
a coing or something suitable as a base
Superglue
PVA Glue
Step 1:
Cut some wire as you see fit. I first did one by approx 8 to 10 inches, but figured out that it would be way toooooooo large....
Step 2:
Bend your wire around and connect the loose two ends with each other. A bit of twisting should do the job here
Step 3:
Straighten the wire , hold the bended end in your hand and start twisting the connected parts around. You will get one wire out of this which is a bit more stable. Do NOT twist everything. At the end you should have the end there your fingers have been as some small sort of hangmanns end.
Step 4:
Bend over the "hangmans end" and superglue it to the coin or your base.
Step 5:
Bend your wire as desired. Shawn uses an "S"-Shape in his tutorial which worked out fine for me.
Step 6:
While the superglued part is still not that hard glue some clumb foilage around .
Step 7:
Use superglue on the wire and proceed going up with glueing clumb foilage. Bear in mind to press hard as your surface you are glueing to is not that much. Please also recall that smoke (except by an atomic nuke) curls up and that it gets smaller to the top
Step 8:
Mix down water and PVA Glue approx 50:50
Step 9:
As foilage will break of we need to harden it. Use an old brush and really soak the clumb foilage mix on your "marker" till the bone.
Step 10:
leave it to dry
Step 11:
Test your marker. It should be hard now and leaves a small sound if you use your finger nail against it. If that is not the case please repeat step 9 , 10 and 11
Step 12:
Prime it (I used black)
Step 13:
Drybrush it (Smoke will get different grey colours - start with the darkest and build up to the brightest part). If you have them like fire please bear in mind that the lower parts need some deepred, red, orange, yellow, white)
Step 14:
Varnish it matt and ready you are.
Samstag, 6. April 2013
Flames of War - Resources - Free Download North Africa - Carpets and Rugs
Hi all again,
while surfing I found these nice fitting carpets to be place on e.g. north africa buildings. Suitable for Flames of War... so enjoy these nice extras !
while surfing I found these nice fitting carpets to be place on e.g. north africa buildings. Suitable for Flames of War... so enjoy these nice extras !
Donnerstag, 4. April 2013
Flames of War - Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk - Chapter 2
Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk - Chapter 2
This is a small beginners scenario based on a historical small battle. The original one was faught by the german 24th Inf. Division on their way from Minsk , crossing the Dnjepr to the russian city of Smolensk. Historically 24th ID captured the railway tracks as played out in Chapter 1. While pushing forward they needed to cross the 3 km wide gap to the next russian frontline. It is hot sommer and the troops need water supplies.
Troops:
German Grenadier (FV)
Orders:
Germans:
After a short break it is advancing again ! Dont let the russians reassemble themselves or to take some breath. Capture the small village which is occupied by them to supply your own troops with fresh water.
Russians:
The germans are coming again, but now we are prepared and have some mortars. Let them come and we will finish them off.
Table:
You can play this scenario on a small sized table likewise 120cm by 120cm. Centerpiece is a large forest covered hill which is not passable by the StuG. On the side to one flank is covered with an MG Nest. The town itself is fortified and all russian troops are entrenched. Place three small barns or similar buildings at the far edge of the table and entrech the russian force. German Player starts with prelimenary Artillery bombardment. If you want to put some flavour to this and scenario 1 please feel free to put the railway tracks from scenario 1 into the german deployment zone.
Victory conditions:
One side always wins if the other one gets totally routed or flees from the battlefield.
Germans win when holding the town for 1 full round. Holding includes the StuG being placed there and surviving one full round despite of being surrounded of russian troops.
Victory Points:
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of russians is worth 1 victory point to the germans
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of germans is worth 3 victory points to the russians
Destroyed MG Nest is worth 2 points
Destroyed StuG is worth 2 points
Historical Outcome:
24th German Infantry Division mayor victory. The StuG was the key to success driving down all mortar units and wreaking havoc amongst the russians who were quite afraid of the tank amongst them.
This is a small beginners scenario based on a historical small battle. The original one was faught by the german 24th Inf. Division on their way from Minsk , crossing the Dnjepr to the russian city of Smolensk. Historically 24th ID captured the railway tracks as played out in Chapter 1. While pushing forward they needed to cross the 3 km wide gap to the next russian frontline. It is hot sommer and the troops need water supplies.
Troops:
German Grenadier (FV)
- Company HQ
- 3 Grenadier Squads
- 3 Grenadier Squads
- 1 StuG III (Starters Box)
- Prelimenary Artillery Bombardment (off Table)
- Company HQ
- Strelkovy Company 3 Platoons
- Strelkovy Company 3 Platoons
- 2 Mortar Platoons 82-BM41
- MG Nest
Orders:
Germans:
After a short break it is advancing again ! Dont let the russians reassemble themselves or to take some breath. Capture the small village which is occupied by them to supply your own troops with fresh water.
Russians:
The germans are coming again, but now we are prepared and have some mortars. Let them come and we will finish them off.
Table:
You can play this scenario on a small sized table likewise 120cm by 120cm. Centerpiece is a large forest covered hill which is not passable by the StuG. On the side to one flank is covered with an MG Nest. The town itself is fortified and all russian troops are entrenched. Place three small barns or similar buildings at the far edge of the table and entrech the russian force. German Player starts with prelimenary Artillery bombardment. If you want to put some flavour to this and scenario 1 please feel free to put the railway tracks from scenario 1 into the german deployment zone.
Victory conditions:
One side always wins if the other one gets totally routed or flees from the battlefield.
Germans win when holding the town for 1 full round. Holding includes the StuG being placed there and surviving one full round despite of being surrounded of russian troops.
Victory Points:
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of russians is worth 1 victory point to the germans
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of germans is worth 3 victory points to the russians
Destroyed MG Nest is worth 2 points
Destroyed StuG is worth 2 points
Historical Outcome:
24th German Infantry Division mayor victory. The StuG was the key to success driving down all mortar units and wreaking havoc amongst the russians who were quite afraid of the tank amongst them.
Labels:
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Mittwoch, 3. April 2013
Flames of War - Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk (Beginners)
Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk
This is a small beginners scenario based on a historical small battle. The original one was faught by the german 24th Inf. Division on their way from Minsk , crossing the Dnjepr to the russian city of Smolensk.
Troops:
German Grenadier (FV)
Orders:
Germans:
You are on your way pushing the russians back to Moscow. After your mayor victory in Minsk it is now time to follow on. Your next objective is to secure your lines and build a stable front for supplies to cross the river Dnjepr. For this reason you have to press forward and capture the lone railway tracks on the road to Moscow. Seize the railway tracks and so prevent any russian counteroffensive or resupplies coming along this tracks.
Russians:
The Germans are pressing forward. After the destruction of your army at Minsk you just come from your educational bases across russia. Your job is simple. Secure the railway tracks to secure resupply of other troop parts. Stop the german advance at any cost.
Table:
You can play this scenario on a small sized table likewise 90cm by 160cm. Right in the middle is a railway track (crossing the 90cm side). Both sides place two objective markers on the railway tracks for which they must at least hold one at the end of turn 8. Deployment is on the opposite sides of the tables with 15cm deployment field to the table edge. With this scenario you can learn movement of infantry troops.
Victory conditions:
One side always wins if the other one gets totally routed or flees from the battlefield.
Game ends after turn 8 there the victory points are counted.
Victory Points:
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of russians is worth 1 victory point to the germans
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of germans is worth 3 victory points to the russians
Each objective to be hold by the side owning it is worth 1 victory point at the end of the game
Each objective to be hold by the opposing side at turn 8 is worth 2 victory points to the opposing force player for each turn it is captured by the opposing force
Historical Outcome:
24th German Infantry Division mayor victory which forced the russians to fall back another 3km and to regroup there.
This is a small beginners scenario based on a historical small battle. The original one was faught by the german 24th Inf. Division on their way from Minsk , crossing the Dnjepr to the russian city of Smolensk.
Troops:
German Grenadier (FV)
- Company HQ
- 3 Grenadier Squads
- Company HQ
- Strelkovy Company 3 Platoons
Orders:
Germans:
You are on your way pushing the russians back to Moscow. After your mayor victory in Minsk it is now time to follow on. Your next objective is to secure your lines and build a stable front for supplies to cross the river Dnjepr. For this reason you have to press forward and capture the lone railway tracks on the road to Moscow. Seize the railway tracks and so prevent any russian counteroffensive or resupplies coming along this tracks.
Russians:
The Germans are pressing forward. After the destruction of your army at Minsk you just come from your educational bases across russia. Your job is simple. Secure the railway tracks to secure resupply of other troop parts. Stop the german advance at any cost.
Table:
You can play this scenario on a small sized table likewise 90cm by 160cm. Right in the middle is a railway track (crossing the 90cm side). Both sides place two objective markers on the railway tracks for which they must at least hold one at the end of turn 8. Deployment is on the opposite sides of the tables with 15cm deployment field to the table edge. With this scenario you can learn movement of infantry troops.
Victory conditions:
One side always wins if the other one gets totally routed or flees from the battlefield.
Game ends after turn 8 there the victory points are counted.
Victory Points:
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of russians is worth 1 victory point to the germans
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of germans is worth 3 victory points to the russians
Each objective to be hold by the side owning it is worth 1 victory point at the end of the game
Each objective to be hold by the opposing side at turn 8 is worth 2 victory points to the opposing force player for each turn it is captured by the opposing force
Historical Outcome:
24th German Infantry Division mayor victory which forced the russians to fall back another 3km and to regroup there.
Labels:
Bolt Action,
Campaign Book,
Flames of War,
German,
Historical scenario,
Markers,
Miniatures,
Objective Markers,
Painting,
Resources,
Soviet,
Tabletop,
Terrain
Montag, 1. April 2013
Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Last part of bockage
So.. I still owe you the coloured and flocked version.
This whole stuff
a) doesnt work against your bank account
b) is easy to be made
c) doesnt take up much time
Enjoy
This whole stuff
a) doesnt work against your bank account
b) is easy to be made
c) doesnt take up much time
Enjoy
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