Flames of War - Resources - Building Templates 15mm

Here are the Templates I have collected and use.

Flames of War - Painting Guide - Faces

Hi all,

yes you can do it .. and it still is a fascinating thing. Painting the face to a 15mm figure..... horrible experience ? No idea on how to do it..??? Lets go:

Use a wet palette made with a Folgers Coffee can lid, wax paper and ass-wipe. Add water and your paints stay wet for days... Too bad it doesn't work on the wife...upsssss

To paint faces, I use Vallejo colors from top right to left:

817 Scarlet
876 Brown Sand
803 Brown Rose
342 Highlights Flesh (white and flat flesh same-same)
845 Sunny Skin Tone
955 Flat Flesh
822 German Camo Black Brown
872 Chocolate Brown

I also use 815 Basic Skin Tone as the basecoat. Lets see, thats 9 plus white and black. Holy crap! No wonder its taking me so long to finish anything! I begin by taking a white-primed figure and painting an undercoat of 815 on all the face and hands. Try to keep the paint thin. I add about 1/2 drop of water to a full drop of well-shaken paint. I let this dry usually overnight but if you are in a hurry, into the oven for about 15 minutes at 65-70 degrees celsius.Then its up for slight drybrushing in the colours stated above.

Flames of War - Painting Guide - Colourschemes and helps for painting (German, Russian, British and US)

15mm Armor

COLOR SWATCH	TAMIYA	VALLEJO	COMMENTS
German DAK Desert Yellow	XF-59 Desert Yellow	Desert Yellow 70977	Early DAK vehicles. White added to achieve a bleached look.
German DAK Desert Yellow	.	.	Later DAK Vehicles. White added to achieve a bleached look.
Dark Yellow	XF-60 Dark Yellow	Middlestone 70882	White added to achieve a bleached look.
Panzergrey	XF-63 German Grey with white	German Grey 70995 or Dark Seagreen 70868	Ratio is 2 drops to 1 drop Whit
German Camo Red Brown	.	.	.
German Camo Green	.	.	.
German Red Oxide Primer	.	.	.
Russian Tank Green	.	.	.
Russian Medium Tank Green	.	.	.
Russian Dark Tank Green	.	.	.
Russian Camo Earth	.	.	Added to some 1943 T-34s.
UK Tank Light Green	.	.	Fireflies, CMP vehicles etc...
UK Tank Dark Green	.	.	Bren Carriers, Matilda I/IIs etc...
UK Desert Sand	.	.	White can be added for more of a bleached look.
USA Tank Olive Drab	.	.	.
USA Vehicle Olive Drab	.	.	.
USA Brown Tarps	.	.	Halftrack roof covers,
French Tank Base Yellow	.	.	Base color on French Cavalry Tanks.
French Camo Red Brown	.	.	Red camo color on French Cavalry Tanks.
French Camo Green	.	.	Green camo color on French Cavalry Tanks.

Recommended Colors for Painting 15mm Infantry

GERMANY	NAME	PAINT	COMMENTS
	Uniform Feldgrau (grey)	German Fieldgrey 70830 & White 951	So many variations but Vallejo 830 is a good start although too dark for 15mm on its own. I continually play with these mixtures. Ratio is 3 drops of Fieldgrey to 1 drop other.
	Uniform Feldgrau (green)	German Fieldgrey 70830 & Buff 976
	Uniform Feldgrau (yellow)	German Fieldgrey 70830 & Sand Yellow 916
	Early Helmet (ApfelGrun)	Camoflaged Green 72031 (Game color) & Black 950	Ratio is  3 drops to 1 drop Black
	Mid to Late Helmet	Reflective Green 890 & Black 950	Ratio is  3 drops to 1 drop Black
	Mid to Late Helmet	German Camo Dk Green 979
	Uniform Afrika Korp.
	Early-war Collar	Black Green 70980 & Black 70950	A smidge of black, looks fairly to scale for 1939-42 collar.
	Gasmask Can / Mess Kit	Extra Dark Green 70896	Color varied as the war progressed. Good Early-war color
	Rifle Strap	Saddle Brown 70940 or Flat Brown 70984	Either is good,  I prefer Flat Brown
	Water Bottle Cover	Beige Brown 70875	Suede leather water bottle cover
	Breadbag and Gasmask strap	Khaki 70988 OR Yellow Green 881	Highlight with white added
	Entrenching tool wooden handle	Sunny Skintone 70845 with Iraqui Sand 70819	Ratio is 1 drop each
	Rifles and MG Butts	Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or  Cavalry Brown 70982 with Black 70950	820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown
	High Boots	Black 950
	Early-war Wehrmacht Splinter camo. Used on Zeltbahn tent quarters/ponchos and helmet covers. Differed slightly from later war covers.	Base Color: Stone Grey 70884 with White 70951	Ratio is 1 drop of Stone Grey to 1 drop White.
		Brown Bands: Beige Brown 70875
		Green Splotches: Intermed. Green 70891
		Dark Thin Streaks: Black Green 70980

RUSSIA	NAME	PAINT	COMMENTS
	Early Uniform Khaki	Yellow Green 881 or Dark Yellow 978	Excellent match for a base color. Slight green tinge. This color can range from brown-khaki to green-khaki.
	Early-war Greatcoat and Rain Poncho	US Field Drab 873	The bundle over the shoulder was either the greatcoat or a rain poncho (Plash-palatka). Various colors for both.
	Knapsack and straps	Khaki 988 or Buff 976	Many variations.
	Gasmask bag	Middlestone 118 or Khaki Grey 880 with Beige Brown 875 leather latch	Many variations.
	Helmet, Russian Mess tin and Bowl	Reflective Green 890 & Golden Olive 857 & Red	Ratio is 1 to 2 to a smidge.
	Enlisted man belt and ammo pouches	Beige Brown  875	Early war color, many variations.
	Officers belt and holster	Flat Brown 984, highlight with Mahogany Brown 846	Many variations.
	Rifles and MG Butts	Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or  Cavalry Brown 982 with Black 950	820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown.
	Rifle Straps	German Cam. Orange Orche 824
	High Boots	Black 950

UNITED KINGDOM	NAME	PAINT	COMMENTS
	Canadian Uniform Khaki
	UK Uniform Khaki Europe
	UK Uniform Africa
	UK Helmet
	Late War Turtle Mk.III  Helmet	Burnt Umber 70941 with Brown Violet 70887	Ratio is 1 drop each. This is as close to my original Mk.III color as I can get.
	Rifles and MG Butts	Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or  Cavalry Brown 982 with Black 950	820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown.

UNITED STATES	NAME	PAINT	COMMENTS
	USA Uniform Europe 44-45 Tunics / Pants
	USA Uniform Europe 44-45 Pants
	USA Helmet
	Rifles and MG Butts	Liquid Acrylic 820 Mahogany (best) or  Cavalry Brown 982 with Black 950	820 has a nice scale sheen to it. If you don't have 820, a touch of black mixed in to darken the Cavalry brown.

Moving house

Finally my landlord is coming back from his other estate in Dublin to reclaim the house I am currently renting. So at present state it is packing and relocating to a new home till mid of May. I guess, I will still find some time to paint and build during this period, but it will result in me not being that kinda active as I would like to be.

Anyway , my new home will feature a sole room for gaming , building etc... so my own hobby room.

YEAHHH ! Looking forward to that !

Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Hedges made the easy way

Hi all...

the most simple stuff often is the best way to go. So this time it is up for some hedges. You probably need them anyway in your games so I will build here two parts.

One is for Flames of War or any other 15mm game. The second one is more for the 28mm games like GW, Bolt Action or Napoleonics, ACW, etc....

What do we need:

• Pan Scourers
• Wooden Ice Cream sticks/Tongue depressors
• Hot Glue Gun
• Spray primer (Dark Brown or Black)
• Flock (Green or Brown depending on season being modeled)
• PVA Glue (The white stuff woodworkers use)

Measurements:

Figure Scale	Hedge Height	Cut Size
15mm	10mm	10mm
28mm	20mm	40mm

Obviously the exact height depends on the height of hedge you want, the sizes given will produce hedges that will provide cover but can still be seen over.

The Build:

 Step 1: Cut stripes from the pan scourer. Depending to which scale you are heading for, please refer to the "Measurements".

Step 2: Once you have cut the hedge to height simply cut it to the length of the sticks you will be using for bases.

Step 3  (optional, only relevant for 28mm):  For figure scales above 15mm the thickness of the pan scourer isn’t enough for a realistic looking hedge.To solve this problem the piece of scourer we cut is folded over and glued together using your hot glue gun.This will simply adjust to your scale.

Step 4: Glue your hedge to your base. Best or easiest way for me here is a hot glue gun. If you are making a hedge with some sort of gate in between simply glue two smaller fitting hedge parts to it and leave the gap. Afterwards you can glue your gate in there. Same goes for some sort of stone wall , bushes or trees.

Step 5: Spraypainting or airbrushing this hedge will prove difficult. So please go outside and I would recommend a brown undercoat instead of a black one. Reason is as simple... I only have seen black hedge parts shimmering through if something was nearly burned to ashes.

Step 6: Paint your tounge depressor (or the base of your choice) and flock it.

Step 7: Give your hedge a goooooood coating of PVA and dip into flock or flock it by hand.

Happy gaming.

Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Fences

After the hedges theres is also a need of fences.

Please be advised to check on the measurements at the hedges for doing the same along for the fences. The max high btw is measured on the upright standing wooden parts and not on the upper row of the wooden fence itself.

What is needed

15mm:
Toothpicks
Match sticks
Base
PVA


28mm:
Coffee sticks
Base
PVA

Step 1:
Take one of your minis and measure approx brest high. That is the max of the upper row.

Step 2:
Take the long sided "Boards" of the fence and lay them out. Cut off another part to glue in approx 90 degrees to the bottom.

Step 3:
Wait to dry. Glue to your base with PVA glue.

Step 4:
Prime base along with fence.

Step 5: 
Paint and Flock base

Step 6:
Paint fence

Happy building....

Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Sculpting Urban walls

Hi again,

finally more terrain pieces. After all the markers etc.. I guess it is time for more fun with always usable stuff.

Different cities have different timescales of architectual designs. So a "normal" or standardised wall doesnt make that much of a sense. This demands for some self made stuff again.

What to use:
- Foamcore (approx 2-3mm thick)
- Cardboard (approx 1mm thick)
- PVA Glue


Measurements:
 Walls all have different heights etc. So my personal measurement is going like this:
Surrounding walls 30mm heigh
Half heigh walls 15mm heigh (thats approx with a base of FoW the heigh there a standing guy still can shoot atop)

Steps:

1) Start cutting as accurate as you can a piece of foamcore. It is really easy to cut, and even if it is not so accurate it doesn’t matter, because it is going to be covered totally.

2) Then use some cardboard. A good one, 1 mm thick. Overlay two cardboard pieces for the reliefs, and glue them together.

3) Then do the same again, and make a sandwich with the foamcore piece cut upfront. Since the two faces will never be seen together, it is not strictly necessary for them to be identical.

4) For the top, use three layers of cardboard.

5) And that’s it. You now have a piece worth for making a mold out of it:

Flames of War - (Tutorial) - How to do smoke / flame markers

As a couple of you guys probably know I like the videos on youtube by Shawn Morris. That results in me at least understanding and being capable of redoing the stuff he does in his tutorials.

After my last game with Ed I figured out that I need more markers. Especially smoke and destroyed markers and then I recalled this fantastic video tutorial by Shawn.

It allows you to reproduce and produce your personal customized smoke and fire markers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2-2qL1_abI

Just a short wrap up what you need and what is needed to be done:

Stuff needed

Foil Clump
Wire
a coing or something suitable as a base
Superglue
PVA Glue

Step 1:
Cut some wire as you see fit. I first did one by approx 8 to 10 inches, but figured out that it would be way toooooooo large....

Step 2:
Bend your wire around and connect the loose two ends with each other. A bit of twisting should do the job here

Step 3:
Straighten the wire , hold the bended end in your hand and start twisting the connected parts around. You will get one wire out of this which is a bit more stable. Do NOT twist everything. At the end you should have the end there your fingers have been as some small sort of hangmanns end.

Step 4:
Bend over the "hangmans end" and superglue it to the coin or your base.

Step 5:
Bend your wire as desired. Shawn uses an "S"-Shape in his tutorial which worked out fine for me.

Step 6:
While the superglued part is still not that hard glue some clumb foilage around .

Step 7:
Use superglue on the wire and proceed going up with glueing clumb foilage. Bear in mind to press hard as your surface you are glueing to is not that much. Please also recall that smoke (except by an atomic nuke) curls up and that it gets smaller to the top

Step 8:
Mix down water and PVA Glue approx 50:50

Step 9:
As foilage will break of we need to harden it. Use an old brush and really soak the clumb foilage mix on your "marker" till the bone.

Step 10:
leave it to dry

Step 11:
Test your marker. It should be hard now and leaves a small sound if you use your finger nail against it. If that is not the case please repeat step 9 , 10 and 11

Step 12:
Prime it (I used black)

Step 13:
Drybrush it (Smoke will get different grey colours - start with the darkest and build up to the brightest part). If you have them like fire please bear in mind that the lower parts need some deepred, red, orange, yellow, white)

Step 14:
Varnish it matt and ready you are.

Flames of War - Resources - Free Download North Africa - Carpets and Rugs

Hi all again,

while surfing I found these nice fitting carpets to be place on e.g. north africa buildings. Suitable for Flames of War... so enjoy these nice extras !

Flames of War - Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk - Chapter 2

Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk - Chapter 2

This is a small beginners scenario based on a historical small battle. The original one was faught by the german 24th Inf. Division on their way from Minsk , crossing the Dnjepr to the russian city of Smolensk. Historically 24th ID captured the railway tracks as played out in Chapter 1. While pushing forward they needed to cross the 3 km wide gap to the next russian frontline. It is hot sommer and the troops need water supplies.

Troops:

German Grenadier (FV)

• Company HQ
• 3 Grenadier Squads
• 3 Grenadier Squads
• 1 StuG III (Starters Box)
• Prelimenary Artillery Bombardment (off Table)

Russian Strelkovy (CT)

• Company HQ
• Strelkovy Company 3 Platoons
• Strelkovy Company 3 Platoons
• 2 Mortar Platoons 82-BM41
• MG Nest

 Orders:

Germans:
After a short break it is advancing again ! Dont let the russians reassemble themselves or to take some breath. Capture the small village which is occupied by them to supply your own troops with fresh water.

Russians:
The germans are coming again, but now we are prepared and have some mortars. Let them come and we will finish them off.

Table:
You can play this scenario on a small sized table likewise 120cm by 120cm. Centerpiece is a large forest covered hill which is not passable by the StuG. On the side to one flank is covered with an MG Nest. The town itself is fortified and all russian troops are entrenched. Place three small barns or similar buildings at the far edge of the table and entrech the russian force. German Player starts with prelimenary Artillery bombardment. If you want to put some flavour to this and scenario 1 please feel free to put the railway tracks from scenario 1 into the german deployment zone.

Victory conditions:
One side always wins if the other one gets totally routed or flees from the battlefield.
Germans win when holding the town for 1 full round. Holding includes the StuG being placed there and surviving one full round despite of being surrounded of russian troops.

Victory Points:
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of russians is worth 1 victory point to the germans
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of germans is worth 3 victory points to the russians
Destroyed MG Nest is worth 2 points
Destroyed StuG is worth 2 points

Historical Outcome:
24th German Infantry Division mayor victory. The StuG was the key to success driving down all mortar units and wreaking havoc amongst the russians who were quite afraid of the tank amongst them.

Flames of War - Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk (Beginners)

Historical Scenario - Road to Smolensk

This is a small beginners scenario based on a historical small battle. The original one was faught by the german 24th Inf. Division on their way from Minsk , crossing the Dnjepr to the russian city of Smolensk.

Troops:

German Grenadier (FV)

• Company HQ
• 3 Grenadier Squads

Russian Strelkovy (CT)

• Company HQ
• Strelkovy Company 3 Platoons

 Orders:

Germans:
You are on your way pushing the russians back to Moscow. After your mayor victory in Minsk it is now time to follow on. Your next objective is to secure your lines and build a stable front for supplies to cross the river Dnjepr. For this reason you have to press forward and capture the lone railway tracks on the road to Moscow. Seize the railway tracks and so prevent any russian counteroffensive or resupplies coming along this tracks.

Russians:
The Germans are pressing forward. After the destruction of your army at Minsk you just come from your educational bases across russia. Your job is simple. Secure the railway tracks to secure resupply of other troop parts. Stop the german advance at any cost.

Table:
You can play this scenario on a small sized table likewise 90cm by 160cm. Right in the middle is a railway track (crossing the 90cm side). Both sides place two objective markers on the railway tracks for which they must at least hold one at the end of turn 8. Deployment is on the opposite sides of the tables with 15cm deployment field to the table edge. With this scenario you can learn movement of infantry troops.

Victory conditions:
One side always wins if the other one gets totally routed or flees from the battlefield.
Game ends after turn 8 there the victory points are counted.

Victory Points:
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of russians is worth 1 victory point to the germans
Each destroyed or fleeing stand of germans is worth 3 victory points to the russians
Each objective to be hold by the side owning it is worth 1 victory point at the end of the game
Each objective to be hold by the opposing side at turn 8 is worth 2 victory points to the opposing force player for each turn it is captured by the opposing force

Historical Outcome:
24th German Infantry Division mayor victory which forced the russians to fall back another 3km and to regroup there.

Flames of War - (Tutorial) - Last part of bockage

So.. I still owe you the coloured and flocked version.

This whole stuff
a) doesnt work against your bank account
b) is easy to be made
c) doesnt take up much time

Enjoy